The Splendour of Lake Superior

On one of the recent hot, over-thirty-degree-days, we ventured across Nipigon Bay in our boat to an island, with a full crew between the ages of 3 and 60-something. We stopped at a secluded beach and spent the afternoon there. The water was clear and unusually warm for Lake Superior. But of course, still quite refreshing to the skin. 

We made a fire on the sand beach, and roasted some wieners and smokies. I had a smoky on a fresh bun with mustard and ketchup. It tasted so good it was like fine dining. We swam frequently, walked the shoreline and spent time in the shade under a big birch tree. Even on an island on Superior - the world’s biggest freshwater lake - it was very hot. 

Later in the afternoon we noticed the breeze picking up and the trees near the top of the cliffs starting to sway. We knew it was time to go before the bay became too choppy. 

Those who spend any time on Lake Superior will know that during the summer the lake basically makes its own weather. As the sun heats the mainland and the gigantic islands, the contrasting cooler air above the lake’s surface creates contrasting air currents; which we all know from watching the weather creates wind. So best to plan your trips in the early part of the day.

Nipigon Bay is a long sheltered piece of water spanning from the town of Red Rock to Rossport; that scenic little villa reminiscent of a maritime fishing village along the Trans-Canada highway. While this distance by water is over 30 kilometres as the “seagull flies” it’s only about 10 kilometres wide from south to north. Several large islands separate Nipigon Bay from the expanses of Lake Superior. You can access this main portion of the lake by several passages, known as “straits.” For example, I can boat from my cabin across Nipigon Bay, through Moffat Straits (the passage between St. Ignace and Simpson Islands) to the main lake. Often the main lake has large swells - even on a calm day - that make your boat rise and fall in rhythmic fashion. Looking to the south you can’t see land as it is beyond the horizon. Regardless of what kind of boat you’re in, this expanse makes you feel small and intimidated. Often we see moose shoulder deep in the water along the islands during the passage through Moffat Straits. 

I mentioned these islands are large. To put things in perspective, St. Ignace has 15 or more lakes on the island itself, some of which are big enough that a small motorized fishing boat would be appropriate to traverse the lakes that are perhaps 5-kilometers long. 

Once you get to know a few of the secret places on the bay and the surrounding islands, there are enough to fill the summer calendar with exciting day trips. Caribou Cove and Battle Island lighthouse being a couple of the spots that I dare share with my readers. 

***